The subversive power of Jean Paul Gaultier corset skirts sets
April 10, 2018
In the countless clothes that Jean Paul Gaultier remembers, the terrible costumes of the world from France’s fashion for more than three decades show many identifiable clothes – a small part of his memory is like his passionate pursuit of a corset. There are two of them: firstly, the slimming curve of his body-shaped Classique perfume bottle; second, his pink satin, created for the Madonna’s 1990 Blond-Ambitious Journey, conical chest creation, which is truly popular culture nowhere Not the image.
The latter’s excitement comes from the way it turns the interior to the outside, making it impossible to see before. Gaultier may not be the first person to recognize corset skirts sets as a subversive ability – gay provocation Vivienne Westwood puts a silk bodice on her shirt in her A/W82 series nostalgia, and in the following few In the middle of the year, the large crinolines at the waist and waist will become the hallmark of John Galliano’s work – but few people are compared with Gaultier’s enthusiasm. He took a bite.
“Fashion critic Suzy Menkes wrote in Jean Paul Gaultier’s “Fashion World”: “The sexual freedom of the female budding planted in the 1960s ultimately led to Gaultier’s design of costumes for Madonna’s 1990 1990 Blond’s Ambition World tour. “His t-shirt rebellion moment is when the runway and the stage are blended, presenting to the global public the designer’s bra concept for the first time in a fashion show in the early 1980s.” Madonna’s message to the world? Tethering yourself has never looked so free.
In New York this week, James Veloria (combination of the founders’ names Collin James Weber and Brandon Veloria Giordano’s creations in the Chinatown Mall), a cult retro brand, brought together more than 200 rare Gaultier pieces that have gathered for many years and will be held at the opening ceremony. On sale as a popup window. This is the first time that they have sold a single designer’s work in this way, but their long love of his clothing has made him a suitable starting point.
“The first thing I met was in high school,” Giordano said. “I found a pair of sailor pants with eye hooks, a vest and striped cuffs and matching mesh sailor T-shirts that I still have. They are very interesting for the classics.” Weber was very happy with the young Gaultier, he from A / W93 A vest was purchased in the Chic Rabbis collection. However, this is not just a person – the time for maturity is ripe for celebrating the designer’s work, not as smart as his contemporaries. (In fact, it was sometimes because he appeared on the satirical TV show Eurotrash.)
Giordano said: “His design has a sense of humor, fantasy and wisdom. These lack fashion. “His clothes are beautifully crafted, and their designs are novel. They are always subversive at any time during the design. His tradition is a designer with no boundaries – one who walks into the rhythm of his own drum, the same person who makes clothes for someone who does something. ”
In the treasure is an iterative of his corset skirts sets where the cage is inserted and a jumpsuit obtained from Gaultier’s S / S89 display (similar works will appear in the fall series of the same year). Made of linen, it combines the wide-shouldered cuts of the company’s uniforms with the alluring temptation of a corset, and includes the gang of his work in opposition forces and pornography; masculine and feminine; public rooms and bedrooms.
“We already have some other cutting cages from that era, but we haven’t even jumpsuits,” Brandon said. “It needs classic elements like suits and tights that usually feel conservative or restrictive and subvert into sexy and powerful things. It’s a garment that forces you to stand up and feel competent. I think it needs a very strong People wear it. ”
Other offerings include S / S95 floral graffiti men’s dresses, curled-up leather bra tops and various Gaultier vivid prints, including the A / W95, Mad Max collection. A lot of personal profiles from the couple, but it also allows them to discover other rare and previously unsold works – including the work of a woman whose mother once worked for the studio.
Is there something that can be escaped? “It’s really hard to say. Over the years, we’ve bought and sold so many amazing Gaultier works!” said Giordano. “I think a big part of what makes us satisfied with our business is to find interesting new homes for each piece of clothing and to meet people who are excited about our clothing. Through this sale, we really put our own wardrobe. All of our favorite works are put there. We can hardly see some of them, but we know there will be more discoveries in the future!”